Fashioning anti war
I am speaking through my clothes. If I were wearing a Mao suit, if I were without a tie, the ideological connotations of my speech would be changed.
__Umberto Eco
Balenciaga Show Winter 22
Please support war victims anyway you can.
Here are some suggestions :
Can ethical consumption exist in fashion?
I was preparing an Instagram guide the other day with several things I wish to own in the near furure. Things I thought might interest fasfem’s little community. While picking up staff, a feeling of frustration began to take over me. Because I was making the guide with the goal of ethical consumption in mind…But what does that even mean?
I paused the guide and did what I do most of the times when numb and indecisive. I googled.
Ethical consumerism: practiced through the buying of ethically - made products that support small scale manufacturers and local artisans, protect animals and the environment.
Yes, that was actually what I had in mind. To buy from brands that actually try to make things better or buy second hand. A form of BUYcott where I support those whose actions align with my ethics. A form of action through my wallet.
It is not unusal for a consumer nowadays to expect companies to have a purpose. According to the 2017 Weber Shandwick’s research, The Company behind the Brand: In Goodness We Trust, 46% of global consumers are increasingly buying from companies or brands that make them feel happy and good, and 30% are increasingly buying from companies that have a social purpose or strive to make a positive contribution to the world or market they operate in. You see consumers are in need to rise up and fix a broken world themselves. They also look up to brands who make a strong effort to be part of the solution. Because even when investors seem to decrease when a brand chooses the clear path, sales do not.
I am not alone for sure. As a woman, I even belong to the part of the consuming force who are more empathic and willing to buycott. So why don’t I feel like I am making an impact most of the time? Because I actually DON’T. There so many issues that remain unresolved in fact and in my mind.
Big supply chains, where the origins of goods are somehow lost until they are delivered, could be the first. Sometimes it is impossible to know who made our clothes and under which circumstanses. Brands on the other hand who claim to support charity have been exposed to use the cause as another form of marketing strategy. A strategy that can be enhanced by the smart use of social media platforms. Which surely I am not against at when it actually makes a difference. But in many cases the support is just a very pety amount of money in comparison to the actual profit from a product being labeled as ‘ethical’.
And then there is the paradox of higher prices. Due to raw materials quality, transparency in manufatcturing and distribution and small scale production, most of ethical choices are more expensive. I get it. But I can’t stop thinking about the fact that people of lower income are excluded from the so called ethical consumerism because they just can’t afford it. Is ditching a coat from ZARA in order to buy from a smaller sustainable brand just not possible for some? How can we reverse that just by changing shopping habits?
I know that there are no right or wrong anwers sometimes. There are a lot of things to take under consideration and lots of systemic issues to be examined further. I have decided to think things through on a personal scale. What is there possible for me as person to do in order to help? Educate myself better. Try and shop by people whom I look up to. Small scale businesses whose products are made with love and lots of effort. People I actually know personally sometimes. According to my income with no guilt. Take part in actions that lead to change. Support causes each way possible. Just do the best I can. Hope that in the post pandemic era the lessons are actually learned. And allow myself to take some joy while purchasing..
For some interesting views about ethical consumerism you can read here, here and here. For data about ethical consumerism in pandemic here. I leave you to go and finally finish my reading on Fashionopolis…
Credits:
Photographer Craig McDean captured the above picture for British Vogue February 2019. Styling by Grace Coddington.
Garance Dore on pushing boundaries
Today we talk about Garance Dore and how she created her own profession by never giving up on pushing boundaries…
You can watch Garance herself explaining how she decided to quit being a fashion influencer and attending fashion weeks in her BOF talk below:
A mommy's tale
Just as I was sitting down to write, all of a sudden, Les Jours Tristes by Yann Tiersen’s soundrack for Amelie movie was on the radio. Dropped the pencil and keyboard and rushed to find and play the album. It was since the day we were coming back from hospital with our newborn Nike that those sounds have reached upon my ears. I was at the back seat with the sleeping baby next to me, watching Athens city lights fade away. Even though my house is so close I felt like I am kissing the city goodbye…
Following days were chaotic. “It’s only natural” everybody reassured me. “Your life now changes for good”. But while sitting among breast pumps and dirty diapers, in the few moments of the day that my thinking wasn’t blurred, the little voice in my head kept asking : “You will write again. Won’t you?”
I am not the kind of woman who looked forward to becoming a mother. According to societal norms I was late to the motherhood game-39 years old-and lucky to have played it without trouble. A kind of luck I was too sleepless to realise back then. I had just finished my Msc in Fashion studies, thesis composition pending, and dreamt of creating fasfem.com. These were parts of my the dreamlife I wished to create for myshelf. I was collapsing to the idea of giving it all up. “Fashion and culture through feminist lens”. How on earth does this feel relevant while googling about breast feeding tips and going back to work 20(!) days after delivering?
There comes to mind an older statement by Marina Abramovic who confessed to have gone through three abortions because she was convinced that becoming a mother would put an end to her artistic endeavors. So this is where it came to. We have created a world where women have claimed their rights after decades of feminist battles and at the same time time are sent back to 1950 the moment they become mothers. They are forced to deal with delimmas and proconceptions that no man - and sometimes even childless women - ever have to in the course of their lives. Academic Andrea O’Reilly had to create the term “matricentric feminism” about this and point out the gap in the feminist theory concerning motherhood and the way it is perceived by society. Because “women have been oppressed by patriarchy both as women and mothers”. She was referring to all mothers, not just the biological ones.
And now come to mind pregnant Slick Woods walkin down the catwalk at the Rihanna Savage x Fenty NYFW September 2018 fashion show. A glowing godess who few hours after the show gave birth to a healthy baby boy. Radiating creativity and power. Stating she “can do whatever she wants”. Of course she can. She just delivered a complete human being to this world.
Women as mothers - according to behavioral neuroscience - develop ecxeptional resilience and out of the box thinking skills. Their creativity is at a peak moment with intuition and empathy following along. But society chooses to ignore these traits and trap new mothers into a never ending role exchanging game. Instead of supporting them providing care and facilities, new mothers are forced to fit into molds out of their shape, burdened with guilt, denied the right to express their unique identities. Just to become “good mothers” whatever that means.
With few delays and lots of support from my loved ones, I managed to complete my thesis. With much more delays and guilt for stealing away precious time with my daughter, fasfem.com was launched. I realised that when I allow whatever feels natural to me be expressed I become a better mother. And as a mother I am more creative and effective. Because time is limited so I do my best with what I have. After that, I enjoy returning to my family and smile. A smile that nearly got lost for good. So I am commited from now on to talk about these staff bacause someone has to in order to witness real change.
The album stopped playing. How majestic the music of Yann Tiersen! I am thinking…in an imaginary scenario of a sequel of Amelie the heroine could become a mother. Is it possible for her to stop being this sensitive creature who spread the joy all around, to lose her identity, just because she had to take care of a little baby? I wonder….
Credits:
This essay was firstly published on ELLE Greece magazine, March 2021 issue, as part of the article “Φωνές Γυναικών” .
Drawing “Radiant Milk” by Hein Koh.
Helmstedt
As long as I can remember myself obsessioning over fashion, one thing has never ceased to amaze me; artful expression on the textile. There is something thrilling on watching plain canvas to transfrom into a wearable piece of material.
There is a creative lady up in the North who uses her brushes and fingers as magical wands. Whatever they touch - be it paper, clay or fabric - gets transformed into poetic version of matter. Matter we can use. Matter - in case of fabric - we can actually wear :
This fairy of a designer is Emilie Helmstedt, creator of the awarded brand Helmstedt.
In her Copenhagen based studio her collections coexist with papier -mâché sculptures and poems. As you can she from the gallery above her creations are unexpected sometimes yet so delightful! All prints are handpainted by her before transported onto fabric. Dreamy dresses, every day objects and huge sculptures are giving us an optimistic view of this world, world where we:
“Take care of not only ourselves and each other, but also cherish the environment.”
Emilie is only 27 years old and already highly recognized in contemporary fashion scene as a very creative and talented disigner. Here you can she the cover page she created for ELLE Danmark January 2021 edition. It has a message of hope and creativity hidden at the center of it…can you spot it?
Yes, Emilie is bringing a child to this world this April…
What I find really hopeful in the development of Helmstedt is that one of the brand’s main interests is stable growth and a humanist approach to the way they do business. For example, due to covit pandemic situation, they created the line ‘Staycation’ last August with reduced prices so as to be more affordable to all brand’s lovers worlwide.
I will leave you now to enjoy Emilie herself describing you the way she finds inspiration and creates:
Les Fleurs Studio
Captured by the thumbnail picture above? I myself need a few moments to pause and inhale its beauty…That’s the way I feel every time I get into Les Fleurs Studio universe. The colours, the light on the pictures, the music background on the videos, the curation of the editorials…yes Maria Bernard has made an entire universe all by herself.
A universe where diversity and the environment are well respected and celebrated. A celebration you definetely want to be part of. Les Fleurs has a collaborative nature and it evolved from a marketplace for products Maria has herself designed, to a collaborative social and retail platform. Designers and Maria are provided with visibility in order to communicate their sustainable message:
“ We don’t produce.
We reuse.”
Usage of pre existing materials, reconcepting the vintage tailoring and curating edits of archive and vintage are few of this brand’s actions that pave the way to reclaiming the term sustainability. Here is a small collection of their products to pure enjoyment of your senses:
I find what Maria does so promising in addition to its artistic allure. Here we have a gorgeous 25 year old lady with a huge following on social media. She could just relax and enjoy styling her selfies wearing the tons of free staff that influencers of her magnitude receive every day. Instead she chose to leave Madrid - Maria is Spanish - move to Paris, design her on line and create a space for real aspiration and connect with her peers, giving them the oppurtunity to reach out to a bigger audience. People who are true artists and have strong work ethics inspite of their smaller following on social media…
Would love to see more of that in the next years in fashion world, especially in my country Greece, where so many talented young people - women ever more maybe - remain in the shadow. It reminded me one of the reasons fasfem was created in the first place. Do you agree with me?
Laila and the edible
So much information don’t you think? We live in the era of constant and unstoppable receiving without even having the chance to filter…Our minds being inflated with fake news, true news - does that term even exist? - alarming details about the pandemic, the climate change, the upcoming economical depression, the conspiracy theories, the fascists on the rise, the refugee crisis and few good news for the required antithesis.
But our minds still need to be able to perform and keep us on track. In that case, a break from all of the above is a matter of life and death right now. I started to try and find ways to distract. Quit overthinking and analysing for a few moments. One of the things that allow me to do that is cooking. And watching other people to cook as well. Following the stories they build alongside their dishes..
Laila is one of those story tellers. She is a true artist who creates marvelous little universes using the edible. Yes. You can eat everything. But everything looks so well established you might hesitate smashing it with your teeth, just for a few moments at least! Cause everything looks wildly delicious as well…
Laila was born to Egyptian father and Turkish mother and grew up in Cairo. Influenced by her father who was experimenting with food, she started cooking by using a spiral - bound thick cookbook that her family owned. She and her sous chef sister started to give those recipes a try, they even evolved into having “phases”, something that characterises her work until now. Phases are about a six months to one year period where she is fixated to find the perfect version of one ingridient or recipe.
So she bacame a food expert who relocated in New York 11 years ago after her studies in university of Miami. She hosts catering events that enhance creative communication while…eating. Her works of art are being consumed and, you know, pooped! That is actually what attracts her the most; the ephemerality of the matter. Her interest in history and materials infuse into working with textural ceramics, interactive foods and participation rituals. People are invited to play with and dig out the food and, while doing so, they become part of telling stories and creating memories…
Hosting appeals to me as well…I truly enjoy preparation, searching for menu ideas and visiting the market to find the best ingredients. Music and decorations play a key role…and the drinks of course! I need to go easy on the stress thing though, I ‘ve been fighting with perfectionism all my life. But now in the Covit-19 era home entertaining might be all we have…so we should be able to enjoy it as much as we can, shoudn’t we?
Here are some hosting tips from Laila’s cool perspective I intend to bring more of in my life:
Tips for home entertaining:
- shop abroad
- let obsessions take over
- prep in advance so you can enjoy your own dinner
- play with proportions
- for dessert, small can be big
I enjoyed researching for Laila so much. She is a bright young woman who walks in parallel ways with her also creative partner Omar Sosa, co-founder of Apartamento magazine. As a constantly evolving and caring human being, didn’t hesitate to have fostered a baby lamp in her aparment for six weeks or declare she daydreams about becoming a neurosurgeon (!). And what a great sense of personal style - like all the creative and brilliand women of this world. Take a look at this marvelous new collaboration of hers and you will know what I mean…
“Always go bigger” she claims.
And I couldn’t agree more…
Trouser skirt
A skirt that is green. Or grey.
A skirt that feels like trousers.
A skirt the modern way.
Faux crocodile pencil skirt, Tibi